Riveting Reeding

"Monster Harmonica Workbench" with Kinya Pollard

by Kinya Pollard

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Welcome back Harmonica "Gear-heads."

In our last article, a "bolt-on" reed replacement strategy was introduced. This installment investigates the Art of Riveting your reeds.

For the benefit of those who did not catch the last issue ("Reeding Aloud") my justification for learning how to replace reeds was a practical one. The thought of discarding a set of customized reed plates, simply because of one or two blown (damaged) reeds seemed ludicrous to me.

Judging from the comments I have received from those who have mastered the techniques, I am not alone in my thinking.

Dust off your workbench, let's get started …

Anatomy of Reed Replacement

  • Refers to the removal and replacement of a damaged reed with a good reed
  • A damaged reed is one that goes flat and cannot be re-tuned, or does not "hold" it's tuning (good for maybe one song, before it goes flat again). The most commonly affected reeds are 4 through 7, both on the blow and draw sides.
  • Reeds are constructed out of spring (tempered) metal, and takes considerable abuse (i.e. excessive volume of air, temperature variances, etc.). Inevitably, the reed will fatigue and develop a hairline fracture, almost always at the heel (base) of the reed.
  • See for yourself: with the cover plates removed, lift the damaged reed with your Lee Oskar reed offset tool about ¼ of an inch out of the slot, then release it. You'll probably find the reed stall while traveling back through the slot. Help it along by gently pushing it through the slot with the pick end of your tool, and the reed will most likely snap off at the heel of the reed.

Tools and Materials

Use your tool kit from the last sessions, and include the following:
  • Reed knockout/replacement tool, sources:
    - Custom Craft Harmonicas (http://home.earthlink.net/~romel/)
    - F. & R. Farrell Company (http://www.frfarrell.com/kotool.html)
  • The following tools and materials are available from www.micromark.com
    - Ball peen hammer (#22119)
    - Toolmaker's Mallet (#81523)
    - High Speed Steel Countersink Bit (#38181)
  • Donor Harmonica (you'll never throw away a harmonica after this session) by the same manufacture and key, but not necessarily in the same model. For example, hand made Hohner Marine Band, Special 20, and Golden Melody have identical reeds. Hohner MS (Modular System) reeds are interchangeable between models; for example, Big River and ProHarp, or
  • Replacement rivets and reeds (4 ~ 7) per dozen, per model are available directly from Hohner's USA Service Center (804)515-1900

Procedure

1. On the host harmonica, remove cover plates

2. Remove reed plates from comb

3. Mark the area near the flush side of the rivet to identify the location of the damaged reed; e.g. 4 blow on a C harmonica

4. Repeat the above procedure on the donor harmonica, and identify the location of the good reed, not another damaged reed!



Tip: Did you know that the same size reed, in the same pitch (note) can be located in another harmonica in a different key? For example, the pitch for the 4 blow reed on a C diatonic harmonica is C. Let's suppose you do not have a C donor harmonica; however, you have a Bb donor harmonica. Simply remove the 4 "draw" reed, because the pitch for this reed is an identical C! Refer to Mel Bay's Harmonica Wall Chart by David Barrett for quick reference (#MB20291)

5. With the host reed plate, place the raised side of the rivet into the "open diameter" die of your Reed Knockout Tool. Carefully align the "pointed" punch over the center of the flush side of the rivet, then with your Small Peen Hammer lightly tap the rivet and reed out of the reed plate. Throw this damaged reed away (I've learned this the hard way by reinstalling bad reeds back into the reed plate!)

6. Repeat step 5 with the donor harmonica, but be careful not to punch out the rivet. Now store this reed in a safe place, while we work on the host reed plate.



7. The matching surface of the reed plate must be absolutely flat. Place onto a hard flat surface (e.g. anvil) and lightly tap flat. With a gingerly twist of your Countersink Bit, ream the hole in preparation for receiving the rivet. This is also a good opportunity to clean the area of any crud or debris.



8. Now returning to the good reed with the rivet, align and finger press the rivet into the hole of the vacant reed slot. Align the reed plate over the "closed diameter" die of your Reed Knockout Tool. Using the flat tip punch, tap the head of the rivet twice with your ball peen hammer. This will "mushroom" the shank of the rivet inside the reed plate. If the reed can still be moved on it's axis, tap the rivet again with a little more force until the rivet is properly seated (with a bit of practice, you'll develop the right feel).



9. Now hold the reed plate up to the light, and with your reed wrench adjust the reed in the slot so that you can see an even amount of light around the sides and top of the reed. "Plink" the reed a few times to ensure clearance, otherwise your harmonica will play with an annoying metallic clicking noise.

10. Refer to my last two issues: "Stop those dogs form howling! Part 2" for tuning techniques and "The Tao of Harmonica Customizing" for gapping and curling techniques.

Congratulations! You have just saved another "keeper" harmonica from the scrap heap that will give you many years of enjoyment.

Kinya Pollard The "Harpsmith"




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