Mel Bay's Harmonica Sessions | The Comb Over, Part 3: Monster Harmonica Workbench - Kinya Pollard

From time to time I would get teased by my friends (Yes JR, this includes you), ribbing me over the fact that the HARPSMITH shop might be a little over the top with power tools. In fact, when my wife and I shop at Home Depot, she places a barrier (shopping cart) between me and the Tool Department … just in case.

So with my shop not being fully operational after the big move, I went "manual." Using only hand tools, I proceeded to complete the Hohner Marine Band that I began customizing in the first installment of "The Comb Over" (Reference April, 2008 article).

This photo was not included in the first installment. Here is a shot of the rounded tines. This mouthpiece will be exceptionally comfortable once assembled and played.

Since Hohner integrated the Knittlingen scale type reeds into their harmonica product line, I have been experimenting with different reed plate modification strategies to compensate for the lack of "snap" and "pop" that the other type of reeds produced. For those readers not familiar with Knittlingen scale reeds, under magnification you will be able to see both the top and bottom of the reed surfaces have sloped profiles (i.e. axe) versus the top side sloped profile (i.e. skate board ramp)

Lately, I have been successful in sizing, also known as "embossing" and "narrowing," the first 70% of the reed slot (start with rivet end).

	Begin by measuring the overall length of reed #1 and divide that value by three. For example, 20mm divided by 3 = 6.7. Round up and mark reed #1 at 7mm.
	Next jump up to reed #10, measure and mark as well.

Line up and connect the two markings with a straight edge and a fine Sharpie. Perform this procedure for both blow and draw reed plates.

With your favorite sizing tool, narrow each of the twenty reed slots just below the ink line, working your way towards the rivet end of the reed.

	To prevent distorting the reed, a seam scraper (M-M #80801) works well when narrowing the reed slot closest to the rivet end of the reed.
</td>	Notice in this "before" photo, the amount of light peering through the sides of the #2 reed.
	Take a closer look at this "after" photo, and you see the light coming through the bottom portion of the slot (below the ink line).

Also with the Knitting scale type reeds, I have found gapping the reeds with less curvature produces a more satisfying reed response. In addition, especially for you lip blockers (pucker embouchure); make certain to gap your blow reeds to higher tolerances than the draw reeds. Tune reeds as necessary (refer to past issues for details).

	On the left is a 0-80 size tap (M-M#14145), which will be used to create threads into the draw reed plate. The tool on the right is a #55 "finger drill bit" to create the perfect pilot hole for the 0-80 tap. Not shown: an alternate would be to use a pin vise (M-M#82110) with a #55 drill bit.
	Drill #55 size pilot holes into the three holes located along the back side of the draw reed plate.
	I found the brass reed plate soft enough to be able to thread the 0-80 tap with my fingers.
	In this photo, I demonstrate the more conventional method of threading holes with a ratchet Tap Holder (M-M#15126)
	Sandwich the top and bottom reed plate to the comb – double check to make certain the blow reed plate is on top! Install three 0-80 x 3/8" brass bolts, but do not tighten yet.
	Align the front of the harmonica (mouthpiece) to a straight edge, and then slowly begin tightening the bolts.
	The comb will set just below the edge of the reed plates, but can be adjusted for personal taste. Simply loosen the bolts and reposition the reed plates until you are satisfied.

Next, I will move on to the cover plates. Position the blow CP onto a flat piece of pine (or equivalent). With a 1/16" punch (M-M#83281); hammer all four holes (created by the nails).

The tabs of the cover plates will probably bubble inward. Reverse the CP, and position the tab onto the straight edge of the piece of wood. Gently tap and reshape the CP tab with a small hammer (M-M#81523). Repeat the procedure with the draw cover plate.

	With the aid of a nut-starting tool (M-M21116A), you will be able to pick up and install the miniature 0-80 nut onto the 0-80 x 3/8" bolt
	With all four nuts threaded into place, a 0-80 nut driver (M-M#80240) will make tightening a breeze.

Final installation of the miniature brass nuts and bolts creates an authentic Marine Band appearance.

All the effort invested into modifying this Hohner Marine Band harmonica was well worth it. Not only does this harmonica look fantastic, it plays great, and will be easy to maintain when the reeds require tuning and/or replacement.

For installment IV of "The Comb Over" series, I am planning on relocating the reed plates and cover plates from this harmonica onto the brass comb (shown in the last issue). Will this become my next new favorite instrument? Stay tuned...

See if you can guess whose celebrity harmonica player’s hand this belongs to?

M-M part numbers refer to Micro-Mark, a supplier of small tools and materials. You can find them at www.micromark.com

Stay tuned! Kinya Pollard The Harpsmith

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