Microphone Choices:

HAPPIER SONIC TRUTHS AND MIC SECRETS REVEALED!

I'd like to think that there's a sense of balance in the world of the Tin Sandwich, that there's a Newtonian "equal but opposite" dynamic in play that keeps the teeter-totter of Life from completely bottoming-out and sticking at either end of the scale, thus keeping the game in motion. And so, for every tale of a vintage crystal element that's been toasted before its time I'd like to believe there's a story of redemption—or at least "revival." With that thought in mind I bring you two tales of microphonic life renewed...

"HEY FRITZ! I opened-up my old Electro-Voice mic and dropped its dynamic element face-down on the kitchen table. It still works, but the metal foil on the front of it is pushed in and is touching whatever's underneath it. Can it be fixed?" Signed, KLUTZ

Dear KLUTZ: Yeah, it's an all too common occurrence, BUT there is the possibility of a Lazarus-like resurrection. This is a fun trick—when it works... The purpose here is to pull the surface of the foil diaphragm back out and into its original convex shape without causing further damage. You'll first have to decide if you're willing to tackle this mission yourself, then lay-off the coffee until both your hands are absolutely steady. You will need: "Super-Glue" or any Cyanoacrylate equivalent; "Super-Glue" solvent; A common cotton-tipped swab.

Directions: Beginning with the element face-up on a stable surface, place a tiny drop of the glue into the lowest point of the dent. Next, bring the swab into contact with the glue while holding it vertically in the fingertips of the hand in which you feel most confident. Let the swab rest on the foil's surface until the glue cures (seconds!). While holding the solvent for the glue in your opposite hand, gently pull upward on the swab until the concavity in the foil's surface pops back out. NOW, still holding the swab in place, apply a drop of the solvent to the tip of the cotton swab and gently pull it away from the element's surface as the glue releases. The solvent usually breaks the bond right at the foil's surface, so very little residue remains. CAUTION! I've experienced greater success with diaphragms of metal foil than with those of the lighter Mylar variety.

"HEY FRITZ! I've got a clean old SHURE 707A that needs its cable replaced—again. I'd really like to go to a thread-on connector but I'd hate to permanently alter the mic's body. Is there some way to do this?" Signed, CROSSROADS

Dear CROSSROADS: YES! There is a non-invasive procedure I'll refer to as the LENZINI MOD, in honor of the fine harp player who first brought it to my attention, Jim Lenzini. You will need: One Switchcraft 2501F (that's the cable-end connector with the threaded collar); Approximately 1½" of quarter-inch steel fuel line (check your local auto supply); A small flat-head screwdriver.

Directions: After disassembling the mic, extract the cable and wire strain relief from the ¼" hole at the rear of the mic. Insert about half the length of the fuel line segment into the hole and tighten the mic's set screw. Remove the strain relief and threaded collar from the pre-wired 2501 (PRESTO! It's now a MALE fitting!) and slip it onto the protruding remainder of the fuel line, leading the hook-up wires into the mic's cavity, and snugging the 2501 to the bottom surface of the mic. Line-up the set screws (if you like) and tighten them both completely. Wire-up the internals and you're good to go! Practical and reversible and no MD license required!

WIRING FOR A HAPPY ENDING! Next time we visit...THE MIC BENCH

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED (Email them to me at HARPMICMAN@earthlink.net).

For pictures and descriptions of most of the microphones listed visit http://www.harmonicamasterclass.com/vintage_collection.htm

Bookmark this article with:

          

Stumble It!     Share on Facebook      Delicious